Beijing. You really have to come to Beijing to understand what kind of city it really is. The olympics were held here, and you might have seen a number of interesting places, but Beijing is not what the television has presented. I grew up watching a growing Beijing on television. On television, I saw thousands upon thousands of bicyclists mixing into each other under dark grey skies and half-completed high-rises. Everyone had the same fixed expression on their faces, and I could not help but think that this was exactly how Beijing people carried out their lives. Well, the media only gets the image partially right. My perceptions were like 80's Beijing whereas the real Beijing is still unclear to me.
For one thing, there are not as many bicycles on the road, but there are a lot of people who bike with wooden carts and food stalls attached to them. The number of cars have increased, but the contrast between drivers and ancient cart drivers is extremely weird. It is like Beijing grew up too fast and left many of its people, especially the older generations, scratching their heads. A lot of the elderly still cling to their Mao suits, sell sweet potatoes on the street, and practice Tai Chi in the park. I am glad to see that certain people have not changed their ways of living despite rapid modernization and Westernization occurring within Beijing and other prominent Chinese cities.
It has been a long while since I posted, but I honestly do not feel that it has been 3 weeks since I left Hong Kong. I have barely scratched Beijing, as this city is massive. We've been to the two Summer Palaces (Yuan Ming Yuan and Yi He Yuan) and the Forbidden City. I've seen the Hutong communities where people live in these courtyard homes that their great ancestors inhabited. I promise to talk about these places later, but class is tomorrow and it is bound to be intense.
Every single week day, we study Chinese for a solid 3 hours. Depending on the day, we spend this time speaking, reading, and writing characters. Zhang Laoshi (Teacher Zhang) is my speaking and reading teacher; he encourages us to create dialogues with each other. Right now, we turn our dialogues into absurd situations because it is more entertaining to practice Chinese when situations become sour. For instance, I am a patient and you are a doctor. I want medicine, but you decide to overcharge me. Then I say that I have no money and would like to have it for free. You ask for my insurance, and I say I have none and that my family needs me to support them. You get the idea right! Song Laoshi is my writing and pronunciation teacher, and he has really made sure that we are saying the words right. Mandarin has tones and a certain force applied to each word. If you say the tones wrong, then the meaning of the word can be completely be different. The language is melodic when it wants to be, but it can go horribly wrong if you make a mistake with the tones. This is why I believe that Mandarin takes a certain level of confidence and decisiveness in character to speak. One example is if you wanted to say, "I want to ask you." It is "Wo xiang wen4 ni." The "wen" drops. However if you say "wen4" as "wen3," where it dips and comes back up you could be saying this, "I want to kiss you." You just have to be careful with what you say!
Apart from our language courses that go from 9:00 in the morning to 12:00 noon, we have Colgate courses as well. We are taking two that have to deal with Modern China in political, sociological, cultural, and literary frameworks. What I am greatly interested in is literature, especially literature dealing with national identity issues. So far, we have reading articles and stories concentrating on these very issues, and I can't get enough. I might want to do research on this topic in the near future as our research projects loom in the distance.
We are also taking calligraphy classes on clerical script, which is so relaxing. We are currently learning different strokes with the brushes made of animal hair and the black ink which we dab into. Although writing calligraphy requires patience and skill, it is very rewarding. I feel that it is the purest art form that the Chinese culture has, but many would argue that Chinese culture has many pure art forms such as painting, pottery, carving, etc. I just have a preference for writing. By the way, I saw a water calligrapher at the Summer Palace (Yi He Yuan). He had this huge mop brush with a metal contraption that held his paint, water. Each character was temporarily sealed onto the old concrete floor until the sun took the meaning away along with the water residue. This form of calligraphy is supposed to be therapeutic, a form of spiritual release that has connections with Buddhism.
What else can I say before I sign off? The "Bird's Nest" and "Water Cube" are not as big as they were on television. The Forbidden City is not as colorful as it was in "Mulan," but its majesty and scalel can take one's breath away. And yes, the Beijing people are really hard to understand because their accent incorporates a lot of r retroflex's that a regular student of Chinese like me has trouble distinguishing the words from the r's. In layman terms, I think the Beijing accent has the same effect as with the adults in the Charlie Brown cartoons. I am a child and the grownups are speaking another language entirely.
Next time, I will share my adventures in the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square!
再见!
-伍键立 Geoff